To paraphrase Frank Sinatra: “We did it our way”. From Porto to Santiago there are many paths you can choose. We swapped between them all. Here is how we did it:
Day 1: Matosinhos – Vila do Conde (we walked approx. 24 kilometers)
We took a cab out of Porto to start the route knows as Senda Literal along the beach and to avoid wasting time walking out of the city. Walking along the beachfront was great for this water lover. The boardwalks, however are murder on your feet.
Day 2: Vila do Conde – Esposende (we walked approx. 26 kilometers)
Today we followed the Senda Literal for 10 k and then swapped to the Coastal. (Which is not the path that goes along the beach – confusing!) Again, we had beach and boardwalks for the first half. When the Coastal path leads inland, sadly for us, none of the towns you see on the map you actually walk through – resulting in us running out of water and patience.
Day 3 Esposende – Viana do Castelo (we walked approx 16 kilometers and took a taxi for the last 10)
Terrible rain today. The walk was through lots of forested areas. The scenery would have been brilliant on a sunny day, but for us it was too wet to stop and appreciate it. Again, not many places to stop, rest and eat along the way. We are getting very frustrated with the lack of infrastructure.
Day 4 Viana do Castelo- Caminha (we walked approx 32 kilometers)
We followed the Coastal Route as far as Carreço, then missed being by the beach and took a “shortcut” through a farm and tried to find the Litoral again. It was not so easy to find. So, we basically followed the beach until we couldn’t anymore. The walking and the vibes were beautiful today. This day is meant to be a 25k walk, but we managed to take every long way possible and finished up doing about 32. A bit too long for week 1 and minimal training.
Day 5 Caminha – Tui by boat (we walked approx 7 kilometers)
Frustrated with the lack of infrastructure and “Camino vibe” we decided to cut inland further to the Camino Central. We took a boat to Tui and Spain. This was a welcome break after yesterday’s marathon and in Tui we found more Pilgrims and some of the feeling we were missing. Tui is gorgeous!
Day 6 Tui – Porriño (we walked approx 18 kilometers)
Lovely walking again today, with quite a bit of road. We missed the Rio option, which I think would be a nicer entry into Porriño.
Day 7 Porriño – Redondela (we walked approx 17 kilometers)
Redondela is the least interesting town we have stayed in so far. We find we are still missing something community like about this Camino. One of the ideas we are floating is that because we are travelling together we aren’t making as much effort to meet other people. So tomorrow, we will do a social experiment to test that theory and walk separately.
Day 8 Redondela – Pontevedra (we walked approx 23 kilometers)
That bridge!!! The experiment failed for 2 out of 3 of us. I really just wanted to walk with my boyfriend and spent all day wondering where he was. Luis loved it and chatted to everyone he saw. Pontevedra is a lovely town.
Day 9 Pontevedra – Armenteira (we walked approx 10 kilometers and took a taxi for the last 11)
Today we started on The Variante Espiritual and it was raining like hell on the way to the Monastery. We lost the trail somewhere around Poio and had to ask for directions. By the time we got to Combarro, I was soaking and very grumpy. Wolfgang proceeded up the mountain and Luis and I took a cab in mist so thick the road was invisible. Armenteira is not really a town, but a crossroads with a Monastery.
Day 10 Armenteira – Vila Nova de Arousa (we walked approx 28 kilometers)
Simply the most beautiful walking day ever. The Ruta da Pedra e da Agua (Route of Stone and Water) is something out of the Witches Real Estate Guide. Then we walked through vineyards, quaint stone towns and then along the beach. We took a long time getting places today because we stopped for so many photos.
Our intention was to take a rest day in Vila Nova, but it was a much smaller town than we expected and the weather was about to turn bad again, so we changed our minds.
Day 11 Vila Nova de Arousa – Padron
The usual route here is by open top boat, but as the weather was so bad, we took a taxi.
Padron is where all the Ways meet again. Here we found connections with more Pilgrims than ever before. It is a very fun place, even in the pouring rain.
Day 12 Padron – O Faramello (we walked approx 11 kilometers)
It is still raining, so we decide to have shorter walking days into Santiago. Plus, we were ahead of schedule and not ready to finish walking yet. O Faramello is a small town and felt very familiar from some similar places on the Camino Frances. Also, here was the first bar we found not serving only Spanish food. It was so welcome to have something different to eat. Thanks Mamba Jamba Chillout.
Day 13 O Faramello – Santiago de Compostela (we walked approx 22 kilometers)
The weather is slightly better today and clears up nicely for us in Santiago. Surprisingly, I felt myself getting excited about arriving. The cathedral has lost it’s scaffolding and is simply stunning.
To read about my first Camino:
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*There is a new way to collect Compstelas. You go the the Pilgrim’s office, and get given a number. There is a QR code which you scan and it the website tells you in real time what numbers are being processed. So, no more waiting in the line for 5 hours. You get a number, go shower, eat, get a beer or two and then come back when it is your time. However, I did hear about people who couldn’t get numbers the day they arrived – so give yourself time in Santiago in case they are busy.
a 3rd culture adult 